We sat across from Susie and next to Joe. The distinguished man of the household, former mayor, and elder of the Tlingit community; of course, he posted at the head of the table.

The table was so long for four of us.

The dining room was meant for fervent Thanksgivings, maybe uproarious, but coated in love. Double-dipped, even.

Instead, the four of us sat at a feast for 10, we only finished a third of the food. Leftovers!

Mostly Susie spoke, and Joe listened. We also jumped in with questions and thoughts as the conversation puttered along at full bore.

“Susie, are you originally from here?”

“No, Oregon.”

Joe and Susie must get this question ALL THE TIME, especially from seasonals like me and Brie who are new and don’t know many natives or native-mixed relationships.

“So, how did you two meet?”

Susie: “In College” she said straightforwardly. They’ll have to forgive me but their world is a complete mystery to me, a magical unicorn.

Susie explained that she went to school in Anchorage and she came to Ketchikan to work with her friend for a summer as a nurse.

Joe said: “We worked in the cafeteria together.”

Susie said exuberantly: “We used to get in food fights!”

“The most fun was the mashed potatoes. Use that scoop and fling it!”

You could see the glimmer in Joe’s eyes. Under all of his professionalism is a guy who wants to have fun.

And in that moment, I was so enamored with their relationship.

Joe sat with his elbow propped on the kitchen table, his hand in his head. Perhaps he was tired from the day, his various responsibilities and his work as a tour guide (he gives an excellent tour). But he was engaged with Susie, maybe he was remembering those times when they met 41 years ago. Maybe he is just happy in the moment. Maybe he likes his life. I know he likes his wife.

I asked Susie: “Does your family come here for holidays?” and I could hear the tears in her voice when she answered “No, we don’t.” This last Christmas we went to visit them. The problem is that it is so expensive to get to Alaska!”

I’ve decided I don’t like to be a once-a-year grandparent.”

I don’t remember how she said she is going to resolve it. I don’t think they will ever leave Alaska. This is where Mr. Williams is so established, his culture is here. Florida doesn’t have a Native presence, at least from what I remember growing up there. I think his wife is adjusting to being an empty nester but maybe I don’t know.

In that one statement, she said so much. I sensed her sadness, her heartbreak. It must be like walking a tenuous bridge every day just to connect with her children on a semi-regular basis.

I’m really glad that they have each other. After all, that’s what started it all.